A Nonlinear Model of Surf Beat     

Nicholas Dodd 《中国海洋工程》1995,(2)

A nonlinear short-wave-averaged (surf beat) model is presented. The model is based on that of Roelvink (1993), but the numerical techniques used in the solution are based on the so-called weighted-averaged flux (WAF) method (eg Watson et al., 1992), with time-operator splitting used for the treatment of some of the source terms. This method allows a small number of computational points to be used, and is particularly efficient in modelling breaking long waves. The short-wave (or primary-wave) energy equation is solved using a more traditional Lax-Wendroff technique. Results of validation indicate that the model performs satisfactorily in most respects.  相似文献   

Wave Loads and Protective Techniques of An On-Shore Wave Power Device     

You Yage YuZhi Associated Professor  Guangzhou Institute of Energy Conversion  Chinese Academy of Sciences  Guangzhou . Professor  Guangzhou Institute of Energy Conversion  Chinese Academy of Sciences  Guangzhou 《中国海洋工程》1995,(4)

In this paper, the extreme wave loads on an on-shore wave power device are investigated. First, boundary element method is applied to solve the three dimensional potential problem based on the small amplitude wave assumption. Then the motion of the Oscillating Water Column (OWC) inside the device and its laods on the device are calculated in time domain. Several protective techniques often applied are simulated by changing the constraint of the upper end of the chamber of the device. Numerical results are used to judge the effectiveness of these techniques. The investigation shows that damping can not effectively restrain the motion of OWC when the period of incident wave is long, which may cause dangerous loads on the structure. The shut chamber can effectively restrain the motion of OWC, but alternatively cause high pressure in the chamber. A Contracting opening with a Taper (CT) can exhaust a great amount of kinetic energy of OWC, and significantly decrease the loads. It is a promising protective tec  相似文献   

沃克环流上升区赤道低空强西风带的分析     

李若钝  于惠苓  刘丽惠  孙瑞本  井传才  苏新锁 《热带海洋学报》1995,(1)

采用ＴＯＧＡ／ＣＯＡＲＥ国际合作考察期间（１９９２年１０月─１９９３年２月）获得的２６７次定点（２°Ｓ，１５５°Ｅ）定时高空大气探测资料，进行计算分析，发现１９９２年１２月─１９９３年２月低空存在一支西风急流，有两次分别持续半月之久，而１９９２年１１月的两次赤道西风急流，因无赤道高空急流配合，仅持续２ｄ便消失。本文还指出：（１）赤道低空西风急流是各种海－气指数产生ＥＮＳＯ异常的重要信息；（２）赤道高空急流有滞后赤道低空急流２ｄ左右的响应关系；（３）赤道低空急流是纬向水汽输送的狭窄通道。  相似文献   

南沙海域万安盆地地质构造特征   总被引：1，自引：3，他引：1  

彭学超  陈玲 《海洋地质与第四纪地质》1995,15(2):35-48

利用在南沙海域万安盆地所采集的地震、重磁资料及钻井、地质资料，对该盆地的地震反向特征，沉积特征、区域地质、构造特征及构造发展史进行了的简要的论述，本文以该区Ｔｇ深度资料为基础，并利用ＣＣＯＰ年刊发表的新生代基底深度资料，初步圈定了万安盆地的边界，并对盆地二级构造单元进行了划分，将盆地划分为５坳３隆、坳隆相间的构造格局。  相似文献   

Effect of Berm Width and Elevation on Irregular Wave Run-Up     

Chen Guoping  Yu Kuang-ming  Zhang Jiachang Assistant Engineer  River  Harbour Department  Nanjing Hydraulic Research Institute  Nanjing Prof.  Senior Engineer  River  Harbour Department  Nanjing Hydraulic Research Institute  Nanjing Senior Engineer  River  Harbour Department  Nanjing Hydraulic Research Institute  Nanjing 《中国海洋工程》1991,(4)

This paper discusses the effect of berm width and elevation of composite slope on irregular wave run-up. Based on the data obtained from model tests, the formula and distribution of irregular wave run-up on composite slope are derived. The changing of wind speed, width and elevation of the berm are considered comprehensively. The wave run-up with various exceedance probability can be es-timated utilizing the distribution curves of irregular wave run-up.  相似文献   

Numerical Analysis of Wave Forces on Arbitrarily Shaped Multi-Pillars Over Varying Topography     

Zhang Libang Research Engineer  First Institute of Oceanography  Qingdao 《中国海洋工程》1991,(4)

The modified hybrid element method (MHEM) is utilized to predict and analyze wave forces on arbitrarily shaped multiple bodies. This method can be applied to waves of all water depths, i. e. shallow, intermediate, and deep waters, on slowly varying seabed. The MHEM employs the ICCG method to save CPU and storage, thus the computation of wave forces for large multi-body systems can be carried out on microcomputers. Numerical results of the present method are compared with experimental data and other solutions. It is shown that the MHEM provides more accurate solutions of the wave forces than other numerical methods do. Therefore, the methodology presented herein can be used in the design of coastal and ocean structures.  相似文献   

Low-frequency damping of a moored semisubmersible obtained from simulated extinction tests and mean wave drift forces     

T.E. Schellin  A. Kirsch 《Applied Ocean Research》1989,11(4):202-211

Low-frequency damping of a moored semisubmersible drilling platform was obtained from numerical extinction tests simulated in still water and in regular waves and from mean wave drift forces calculated at zero forward speed. The influence of drag forces was represented by the modified Morison equation. The platform as used for the 18th ITTC Comparative Mooring Study was analyzed in irregular beam waves. The computed time series of sway as well as the corresponding sway response spectrum compared favourably with model test measurements, demonstrating that this procedure to determine low-frequency damping can be effective.  相似文献   

互花米草及其对海岸的防护作用   总被引：28，自引：0，他引：28  

宋连清 《海洋学研究》1997,15(1):11-19

本文论述了互花米草在滩涂中种植的时间、种植的方法及其生长的适应性。文中着重讨论互花米草在海岸工程中防浪和消浪能力。与工程护岸比较，互花米草护岸是最经济、合理和有效的。通过本文的讨论为今后利用互花米草进行海岸防护提供依据  相似文献   

Gravity torques for surface waves     

Kern E. Kenyon 《Journal of Oceanography》1997,53(1):89-92

The effects of the gravity torques acting on the angular momentum of surface gravity waves are calculated theoretically. For short crested waves the gravity torque is caused by the force of gravity on the orbiting fluid particles acting down the slopes of the crests and troughs and in the direction parallel to the crests and troughs. The gravity torque tries to rotate the angular momentum vectors, and thus the waves themselves, counterclockwise in the horizontal plane, as viewed from above, in both hemispheres. The amount of rotation per unit time is computed to be significant assuming reasonable values for the along-crest and trough slopes for waves in a storm area. The gravity torque has a frequency which is double the frequency of the waves. For long crested waves the gravity torque acts in the vertical plane of the orbit and tries to decelerate the particles when they rise and accelerate them when they fall. By disrupting the horizontal cyclostrophic balance of forces on the fluid particles (centrifugal force versus pressure force) the gravity torque accounts qualitatively for the three characteristics of breaking waves: that they break at the surface, that they break at the crest, and that the crest breaks in the direction of wave propagation.  相似文献   

The Mathematical and Parameterized Expressions for Wave Induced Excess Flow of Momentum     

朱首贤丁平兴  张文静 《中国海洋工程》2007,21(1):137-146

Wave induced excess flow of momentum(WIEFM)is the averaged flow of momentum over a wave period due to wave presence,which may also be called 3-D radiation stress.In this paper,the 3-D current equations with WIEFM are derived from the averaged Navier-Stokes equations over a wave period,in which the velocity is separated into the large-scale background velocity,the wave particle velocity and the turbulent fluctuation velocity.A concept of wave fluctuating layer(WFL)is put forward,which is the vertical column from the wave trough to wave ridge.The mathematical expressions of WIEFM in WFL and below WFL are given separately.The parameterized expressions of WIEFM are set up according to the linear wave theory.The integration of WIEFM in the vertical direction equals the traditional radiation stress(namely 2-D radiation stress)given by Longuet-Higgins and Stewart.  相似文献